Tag Archives: Portugal

Old Bastard’s

No the title of this post does not refer to the two ‘young at heart’, fabulous fellows I am sharing my house with here in Praia da Luz. Ol’ Bastard’s is the name of a great little fish and chips place in Lagos just up the road from where we are.  Dave heard it was highly recommended and so we decided to try it last night which happened to be the first night it was open for the tourist season after being closed for several months. 

 Yesterday was an absolutely gorgeous day – our warmest and finest since arriving in Portugal and I headed into town an hour or so ahead of the guys so I could hike the 4 kilometers along the ocean at a more leisurely pace– stopping to smell the pine and listen to the waves….. but also to do a little shopping in Lagos. I have Easter baskets to fill and friends and families’ birthdays to recognize when I get back home to Canada. 

The guys joined me at Ol’ Bastard’s.  The host who opened the door and greeted us looked exactly like the fellow on the sign over the front door, but he was anything but an ‘ol’ bastard.’  He was a thirty something young father who spent our entire visit walking around the restaurant with his six month old baby while supervising his friendly staff who provided us with a tasty meal.  

Dave and Rudy both had American fish and chips (you can also order Australian or British fish and chips) and I had the fish tacos.  Dave and Rudy suggested to our waitress they might want to try offering Canadian fish and chips and serve the fries poutine style. 

They were playing 80s and 90s tunes on the restaurant soundtrack and Dave and Rudy spent some of our dinner hour trying to identify the names of the different artists we were hearing . 

Ol’ Bastard’s lived up to its hearty recommendation.  

Other posts……….

The Walk That Wasn’t and An Authentic Portuguese Lunch

Goose Necked Barnacles and How To Catch An Octopus

First Supper in Lisbon- My Husband Has Great Instincts

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Goose Necked Barnacles and How to Catch An Octopus

Beach at Salema

Yesterday we did a little road trip I had read about in a travel article. We headed west from our house in Praia da Luz to the village of Salema. The cobblestone decor made it obvious we were in a place that is dependent on the sea for its livelihood.  We went for a walk along the beach. Although in summer the beach is said to be extremely popular and crowded with tourists we shared it with only a flock of gulls and a group of fishermen who were repairing their nets. Our friend Rudy got into quite a conversation with one of the fishermen and Dave and I listened as he explained in his limited English that  their main catch was octopus. He showed us the terra-cotta and steel pots they use to catch the octopus. This fisherman owns literally thousands of them. The pots are all roped together on lines that can stretch for 20 kilometers or more.  The octopus like being inside the pots because it is safe and secure, kind of like a cave for them, so once the fishermen have reeled the pots in they put a spot of bleach into the pot which chases the octopus out. They sell the octopus to restaurants. 

I had read one needed to stop in Vila de Bispo to taste the goose necked barnacles, so we found a tiny restaurant there for lunch.  Our helpful waiter David brought out a plate with a goose necked barnacle for us to look at. It made Dave and I decide to eat something else so we ordered sandwiches. Our friend Rudy was more adventuresome and asked the waiter for suggestions. He ended up ordering the fried moray eel. Rudy said it was good but there wasn’t much of it so Dave and I shared our sandwiches with him. While we were eating a couple came over to talk to us and asked if we were from Manitoba. They had noticed Dave’s Winnipeg Jets hat. Turns out they were from Manigotagan and ran a campground there. They were traveling through Portugal and checking out the Portuguese campgrounds.  Rudy who has been an avid biker in the past, also stopped to chat with a group of bikers from Great Britain.

The cook kept coming out from the kitchen during our meal to check on us. She couldn’t speak English but her cheery voice and smiling face made it clear she hoped we were enjoying our food.  We didn’t order dessert but she brought out a small slice of some lemony kind of pie for us to share anyway.

After our meal we got back into our rented car and headed off for more adventures.  We’d learned how to catch an octopus and what a goose necked barnacle was… two things we didn’t know before our road trip began. 

Other posts…………..

Coming All the Way to Portugal to Get To Know People From Our Church

First Supper in Lisbon

What is Fado?

 

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Such Beauty Beneath Your Feet

Almost all the streets and sidewalks in Portugal are made of cobblestone.  

Cobblestones littered with cigarette butts because it seems everyone in Portugal smokes

In many areas the stone pathways are plain and pedistrian like the ones in the picture above……but others called calçada Portuguesa are true works of art done by workers called calceteiros who painstakingly make mosaics with the small stones. Apparently the practice is in jeopardy because the calceteiros do not earn high wages and must work long hours so fewer and fewer young people are interested in learning the craft as apprentices.  This unique kind of cobblestone art is thought to have originated in Mesopotamia and was brought to Portugal by the Romans who occupied the country during the 3rd and 4th centuries.

Many of the patterns like these waves have some kind of reference to the sea because Portugal’s economy was once so closely tied to ocean exploration and the fishing industry

The cobblestones are more expensive than ordinary pavement to install, are very slippery when wet and wear out more easily. Many accidents are caused each year by people who stumble and trip because of loose or missing cobblestones. The cobblestones are also much harder to traverse in high heels, with a stroller or wheelchair, or as we found out, your luggage on wheels.  Although some say the cobblestones should all be replaced there is a move afoot to have them protected by asking them to be granted UNESCO classification as a world heritage item.  Hopefully a way will be found to make these cobblestones safer without destroying them because they are truly a thing of beauty. I have my eye out for them everywhere we go in Portugal and have not yet grown tired of recording new patterns with my camera. 

Other posts………

Seeing the Movie The Post in Lisbon

A Fascinating Conversation in a Little Wine Shop in Lisbon

Lisbon by Design

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Filed under Art, Portugal

Too Old To Visit Lagos?

Lagos, Portugal is home to some 30,000 people. We have been to the city five times now.  

climbing to lagos

We often hike to Lagos over the hills. Here we do the hike with our friend Rudy.

Lagos is only about 5 km. away from our house in Praia da Luz. It is currently listed as one of the top 10 places in the world for people under 30 to visit.   In the 15th century Lagos was the hub for Portugal’s maritime exploration of the world. It is still very much a marine city. The harbor is filled with vessels there is fresh fish for sale along the harbor front and……

Dave watches as we wait for a boat to go under the raised bridge

when boats going down the Bensafrim River are passing by….. up goes the bridge across the river and pedestrians must wait to cross while the boat travels under the bridge. 

This is Prince Sebastian. He died in battle in 1578 but his body was never found and at the darkest points in Portugal’s history people have predicated the great king will come back to save his country.

Public art in Lagos is plentiful, some representing historical figures, some by contemporary artists and others by local street artists.  There are shops aplenty to please the tourists and more cafes than one would think could possibly do business.  In February you have to search a bit to find a table in the sun but when you do it’s a lovely experience. In Lagos we learned about the dark side of Prince Henry the Navigator who we first met at the Maritime Museum in Lisbon.  The expeditions Henry sponsored to ‘discover’ Africa brought a great many riches to Portugal including boat loads of slaves.  The Prince Henry Square  in Lagos where this statue of the prince stands, was also the site of Portugal’s first slave market. Beginning in 1444 African families were brought to this square to be separated and sold into slavery to work in local households and businesses.  It is said Henry was making a 700% profit on each slave but he thought he was doing a good thing helping these ‘heathen pagans’  see the light of Christianity. Ironically the square named after Prince Henry and the site of the slave market, also holds a church formerly called The Church of Mercy.

Lagos is a city of contrasts.  

Gypsies ride in traditional carts through the streets of Lagos. Portuguese gypsies are said to face more discrimination than in any other place in Europe.

There are old methods of transportation and new methods of transportation.  There are old buildings and new buildings. There are older traditional musicians in the streets

This young man was playing barefoot on a very chilly day in Lagos.

as well as younger artists playing more contemporary fare.
Lagos may have been named one of the top ten cities in the world to visit before you are 30 but………… although we are already past twice that age mark……..  we are still enjoying learning about Lagos and spending time there.  I’m sure we will be back for more visits before we leave Portugal. 

Other posts…….

Lisbon by Design

Six Interesting Things About Lisbon

Plumb Tuckered Out in Lisbon

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Can Your Marriage Survive Lollygagging?

Dave checks out the menu at yet another local restaurant

We were looking for a restaurant to have supper one cold and windy night here in Praia da Luz, Portugal where we have rented a house for six weeks.  I was hungry and freezing but Dave insisted on touring around our whole area, stopping at every restaurant to read through the menus posted outside.  He just couldn’t decide where to eat. I finally lost my patience and shouted over the wind that he needed to just pick a place for goodness sake.  He retorted that he had only been trying to kill time so we could have dinner at exactly 7:00 as we’d discussed at home and then he added……….  “and you should be patient because I certainly didn’t get upset when you were lollygagging on our hike this afternoon.” 

I had never heard Dave use the word lollygagging before.  Perhaps he’d heard it in conversations between the many British residents in the area, but he was right.  I had lollygagged on our hike that afternoon.  I had stopped to take photos……. of flowersand plants and trees and the ocean and the cliffs and our path and interesting graffiti and Praia da Luz in the distance.  At one point I had been lollygagging so much I lost Dave as he entered a gully.   and because of that I headed off in the wrong direction and had to backtrack when I finally spotted him climbing up a steep hill. 

Dave waits for me to catch up

It started me thinking that having patience with your partner’s lollygagging is important if you want a relationship to be successful because I suspect often couples don’t share common lollygagging tendencies.  On hikes Dave focuses on getting to our destination.  I lollygag because I’m focusing more on our surroundings.  

Lunch of pizza, beer and sangria after our hike to Lagos

When we go out to dinner Dave lollygags because he focuses on looking at all the choices and enjoys the whole process of picking the perfect spot to eat. I focus on the food and having a meal.  I tend to lollygag in book stores and jewelry stores and Dave in sports stores and clothing stores. I lollygag more in art galleries and Dave more in history museums and zoos. 

I think over the many years we’ve been traveling together we’ve become more patient with each other’s lollygagging.  But every once in a while we snap. What lollygagging differences do other couples have to work on I wonder?

Other posts……..

Plumb Tuckered Out in Lisbon

Real and Messy and Honest

What Should I Take A Picture Of? 

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Filed under Family, Portugal

Coming all the Way to Portugal to Get To Know People From Our Church

 I am the librarian at my church. The Sunday before we left for Portugal I was in the library chatting with a couple I had never met before.  They were leaving on a trip and wanted some books to take along.  As we visited I found out that Ann and Ernie were headed for Portugal and discovered they would be in the Algarve area at the exactly the same time as we would.  We exchanged e-mails and so a few days ago we invited them to drive from their rented place in Albuferia to ours in Praia da Luz and join us for dinner. 

When they arrived we first went for a walk along the beach.  As we walked and visited we found out we had many things in common besides attending the same church.  Ann had volunteered at the Winnipeg Art Gallery for a number of years just before I became a guide there. As a couple they had traveled to many of the same places we had.  Ernie and Dave shared a common long time friendship with a man in Philadelphia, and Ann and I were both currently reading the same book- Night Train to Lisbon.  It was sunny out and quite nice and we took some photos of the interesting color variations in the rocks along the beach.

An archeologist has unearthed ruins of an ancient Roman aqueduct and bath house at this site along the waterfront  that date back to around the 4th century

As we headed back to our place we checked out some Roman ruins along the sidewalk and then much to our delight spotted a pod of dolphins near the shore. We stopped to watch them leaping and breaching before heading home for supper.  I had made spaghetti and salad.  We had fresh bread from the bakery around the corner and Ann and Ernie had brought a bottle of wine so we had a delightful meal together talking about our families, travels, past jobs and retirement endeavors.  Among other things we discovered Ann and Ernie love ball room dancing. 

Kind of interesting that we had to come all the way to Portugal to get to know some people from our church in Winnipeg. 

Other posts……..

Saying Hello to People

Fascinating Conversation in a Tiny Wine Shop in Lisbon

A Church and a Bar on Every Corner

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Seeing The Post in Lisbon With People Who Truly Understand What Freedom of the Press Means

We saw the movie The Post in a large packed theatre in Lisbon.  The film was in English with Portuguese subtitles. It tells the true story of how President Nixon tried to stop American newspapers from printing information from the Pentagon Papers- stolen documents that revealed a government cover up of damning information about the Vietnam War.  The Washington Post published stories using Pentagon Paper materials even though the President threatened legal action, including possible imprisonment of The Washington Post editor and owner. I intitially wondered why so many Portuguese citizens,many of them my age, were so interested in a movie that was essentially about freedom of the press in America. As I thought about it I realized they were probably interested  because they could identify.  Antonio Salazar’s Estado Novo political party held power in Portugal from 1932-1974. Salazar appointed a goverment censorship committee that strictly controlled all forms of media including newspapers. A revolution in 1974 ousted the Estado Novo party and full freedom of the press was restored.  People in Portugal my age can identify with The Post because in their country’s recent history they have lived both through times of complete supression of the free press and complete freedom of the press. 

The Post is considered a particularly timely film for 2018 when the American President is repeatedly attacking the freedom of the press in his country.  According to a rating scale on a website called Reporters Without Borders Portugal actually has a freer press now than the United States.  

Interesting how the country in which you watch a movie can add meaning to its message. 

Other posts………

Cambodia Revisited 

Three Lessons From the Movie Arrival

Childbirth and The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance

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Filed under Movies, Portugal