Tag Archives: chichen itza

Swimming In A Cenote

Sacred-Cenote-of-Chichén-ItzáThe warm dark water was refreshing. Little black fish darted around my legs as I swam out to the center of the pool. I looked up to see fifty- foot long, string-like tree roots hanging down in a kind of see through curtain. Colorful birds darted through that curtain and soared up to find their nests. High overhead were strangely formed stalactites. One of them looked like a wasp’s nest, papery grey and pock marked. Light streamed in from above, glancing off the mossy rock walls. Ferns and leafy, flowering plants grew from crevices in the stones.

On a trip to Cancun I had the opportunity to test the waters of a Mexican cenote. There are over 3000 cenotes in Mexico’s Yucatan province. Divers and visitors have explored only a tenth of them. Many remain hidden in the jungle. Cenotes are fresh water underground caves or sink holes. The ground in the northern part of the Yucatan tends to be gravelly and permeable allowing rainwater to filter through it and form caverns. These natural reservoirs can become very deep before they hit a layer of rock that prevents the water from filtering further down. The water in cenotes is turquoise and usually a pleasant 78 degrees. The cenote we swam in was quite small but some are thousands of meters in length and can be connected to other cenotes through underwater passageways.cenote cichen itzaThe ancient Mayans thought the cenotes were sacred because they were their only source of fresh water. The cenotes were considered the home of Chac the Mayan god of rain. Skulls wedged between rocks in many cenotes have led archeologists to believe that human sacrifices were made to Chac in the cenotes. I was a little scared my husband might become one of those human sacrifices. 

cancun_065He decided to climb up the steep stone steps on one side of the cenote and jump from this precarious position landing way down in the waters below. He survived the steep plummet however and enjoyed it enough to try it several times. Luckily he did not suffer the fate of the Mayan sacrificial victims who were thrown into the cenote’s waters and were never seen again.

cenote chichen itzaThe cenote we swam in was near the ruins of the Mayan city of Chichen Itza. The layer of limestone rock on its surface had caved in allowing light to filter through and create lovely rainbows and shadows. We visited in the late afternoon so there weren’t that many other swimmers around. At one point I had the water of the pool all to myself. Swimming through the sun lit tree roots I got an eerie sort of feeling imagining all the people who had visited this same subterranean cave over the last two thousand years.

At some of the spas in the high-end resorts in Cancun they pour water from a cenote over your body. It is said the water is sacred and will bring peace and healing. At other spas they take mud and moss collected from a cenote and put it on your skin. Apparently it keeps you looking youthful. These special cenote treatments can cost over $100. Luckily I got to use the cenote’s waters for free. A yoga expert who offers tours of the Yucatan takes her devotees to a cenote to swim. She says swimming in a cenote can make you wiser and give you a longer life. I guess I’ll just have to wait and see whether my cenote experience has that kind of magical impact on me.

Other posts about Mexico……

Mayan Human Sacrifice- A Myth

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Mayan Human Sacrifice- Just a Hollywood Myth?

at chichen itza

Dave with our former student Renan at Chichen Itza

” It may be a myth. If it happened, it wasn’t on the grand scale that most people think.” We were visiting the ancient Mayan city of Chichen Itza in the Yucatan province of Mexico with Renan an exchange student from Mexico both Dave and I had taught in our high school classes. Our expert guide had been hired by Renan’s father. The guide repeatedly made reference to the long held belief that Mayans practiced human sacrifice. He wanted us to question that assumption.

Mel Gibson’s Hollywood blockbuster Apocolyptico brought the history of the Mayan people into the limelight. Gibson’s movie recounts in gory detail the human sacrificial practices of the Mayans and cites them as the reason for the eventual downfall of Mayan civilization.

Our guide at Chichen Itza questioned Gibson’s theory. He said human sacrifice might never have happened among the Mayans, or if it did, it wasn’t a frequent practice. He told us Spanish Christians invented or greatly exaggerated the extent of the ritual of human sacrifice. They wanted to portray the Mayans as heathens in need of conquering and conversion.

at the ball court chichen itza

Dave at the ball court at Chichen Itza

Our guide, anxious to downplay the human sacrifice angle, wanted to show us all the progressive things the Mayans accomplished. We visited the massive Temple of Kukulkan. Shaped like a pyramid its construction encodes detailed information about the sophisticated Mayan calendar. We saw the Observatory, the building from which Mayan astronomers plotted the movements of the planets, the sun and the moon.

At the Ball Court we learned how highly trained Mayan athletes engaged in competitive sporting events. The Ball Court offered a stunning example of Mayan acoustical technology. A whisper at one end of the site could easily be heard by someone standing 545 feet away at the opposite end.

chichen itza

At the Temple of Ten Thousand Columns

We had our picture taken at the Temple of a Thousand Columns. It once housed an outdoor market where Mayan commercial ventures flourished. We stopped to admire beautiful designs on another building called The Nunnery. Its frescoes and engravings are a testament to the artistic achievements of the Mayans. Our guide took us past a large set of artillery-shell-shaped stones and showed us how they produced melodic tones when tapped with a stick. The Mayans were clearly accomplished musicians.

chichen itza mexico

After our tour I was convinced the Mayan civilization had been highly advanced but did that necessarily mean they hadn’t practiced human sacrifice? I had read that hundreds of bodies of supposed sacrifice victims had been found at Chichen Itza. Our guide had explanations. He said the mass graves the Spanish conquerors found were for victims of warfare not human sacrifice. He said other sites where bodies were discovered served as burial grounds for royalty, not death chambers for human sacrifice victims.

Mel Gibson’s movie Apocolyptico suggests the Mayans’ human sacrifice practices created a blood lust for killing that eventually destroyed their society. Some historians would disagree and claim it was contact with the European diseases the Spanish brought to Mexico that decimated the Mayans. Who is right?

chichen itza

Our guide explains his theories about the Mayans

We may never know. Unfortunately zealous Spanish priests anxious to eradicate the ‘heathen’ writings of the Mayan people had most of their manuscripts burned. Only a few remain and they do not provide enough information to decode Mayan hieroglyphics and thus find definitive answers to historians’ questions about the Mayans.

tulum ruins in cancun

Dave at the Mayan ruins at Tulum

History is constantly being rewritten as new information is brought to light and new questions are asked. Mel Gibson’s movie raised some troubling questions about the Mayan people. This may not be a bad thing. Perhaps it will encourage more North American tourists to leave the beaches and resorts of Mexico, and travel to places like Chichen Itza and Tulum to discover answers to questions about the great Mayan civilization for themselves.

Other posts about myths…….

The Colosseum – No Christians Fed to Lions 

The Catacombs- Myth and Reality

The Myth That It’s Not Safe to Live in Winnipeg’s Exchange District


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